Arrived in Madrid around 4pm, and figured out the public transit thing to get to our hotel in the Salamanca neighborhood, which is very upscale. Noticed a lovely restaurant right on our corner, that we would not get to try because it was packed every single night with well dressed Madrileños. We went for some old school tapas nearby, and then had tickets to see Atlético Madrid play Real Socieadad at the Vincente Calderón Stadium along the river. Taking the metro there was like being on a packed 4 Train to Yankee Stadium, however I think Atlético Madrid are more like the Mets (though with a better record than the Mets) and Real Madrid are more like the Yankees (with the larger, snobbier fan base). Fans were crazy screaming, singing, and waving banners around, especially since the team scored two goals early on. We had really good seats and could see all the players well. Only problem for us was all the people smoking around us. They don’t sell beer at the games, just some really bad junk food, and we were happy we had eaten dinner first. Trevor was in soccer fan heaven, and it was really fun for all of us.
Bad day for Amy - I felt lousy all day (24 hour bug?). Trevor stepped up and picked a good museum to go to - the National Archeological Museum, which was right near us in a gorgeous palace.
San Gines. I recovered a bit for a lovely dinner at Taberna La Carmencita, where the menu had descriptions of where the food was sourced, and all the items were traditionally Spanish, but prepared as if your Spanish mother happened to be the best cook in the whole country.
We had some simple grilled vegetables with Spanish olive oil and chunky salt, some nice chicken and meat dishes, homemade ice cream and the best slice of traditional chocolate “birthday cake” ever.
Not a great weather day, and Amy still not feeling 100%, but we made it to the Prado Museum. Focused our efforts there mainly on Velazquez, El Greco, and Goya. It was cool seeing “Las Meninas” by Velazquez in person, after seeing how much it inspired Picasso at the Barcelona Picasso Museum. Since, we didn’t make it to El Greco’s adopted city of Toledo, we had to make due with the collection of his work at the Prado, which was excellent. For Goya, we saw the famous May 3, 1808 painting of the Spanish partisans being shot in the square by Napoleon’s troops, and they had a whole special exhibit of Goya paintings that emphasized the social classes and life in 19th century Madrid of the Hapsburg dynasty. There was also a visiting exhibit from a museum in Basel, Switzerland. It had ten Picasso paintings in a variety of styles at the Prado, and works from other European painters of the 1920s at the Reina Sofia Museum, that we would see on our last day.
After the museum, we tried another well known churro place, Maestro Churro, but found it quite disappointing. Our next activity to keep us out of the rain, and keep the walking minimal for the day was to check out a movie. Movies in Madrid, we learned, are shown in their original language with subtitles, so we had no problem watching “Insurgent” (Insurgente en Espanol), which was pretty good. The theater was a bit retro, but did have assigned seating (that Trevor doesn’t like), and served beer, which goes nicely with movie popcorn. We also had time to wander around the center of Madrid (Puerta del Sol, now called "Vodaphone Sol") which was a bit like Times Square and do a tiny bit of shopping in Zara.
After the movie, we went back to our hotel neighborhood, and the kids found an American style bbq restaurant, while Matt and I had some dinner at a seafood restaurant, with some grilled razor clams, and the cutest little “coquinita” clams in a green garlic sauce.
Got motivated to wake up a bit earlier than usual (after all the late night dinners and walking we had been doing, it was easier just to sleep in most mornings), and started our day with a metro ride to the Lavapies neighborhood, which is where the Jewish citizens of Madrid used to live before their expulsion from Spain during the Reconquista. In a neighborhood church, there was a brief mention that the building was on the site of an old synagogue, but other than that, no traces remain. This neighborhood was more diverse and less stuffy than our hotel neighborhood, and had its own nice indoor market, the Mercado Antón Martin, which had Japanese and Mexican stalls in addition to the fish, meat and produce.
We headed to the Reina Sofia, the second in Madrid’s museum triangle (we skipped the third), and saw more of the great works from that Swiss Museum, a lot of post-war modern work from Richard Serra, Donald Judd, and some of their European contemporaries.
The most interesting work was from the period of the Spanish Civil War, including Picasso’s Guernica, which Amy had seen as a teenager when it was still being held on deposit at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, while Picasso hoped the government of Spain would return to democracy to replace Franco’s dictatorship. It was fabulous, and we learned that the murder of civilians in the Spanish town for which the painting is named, was aided by Hitler’s Luftwaffe, working for Franco. They also had Picasso’s companion Dora Maar’s photographs of the work in progress, so you could see how Picasso made changes during the painting.
After the museum, we popped over to the nearby “Steakburger” for some classic American hamburgers in a sit down restaurant, that seemed to be equally popular with Spanish people. (They did offer burgers in either beef or ox, but we all stuck to beef.) The rest of the afternoon was spent in the Parque del Retiro, which was green and beautiful, and we had the best weather of our time in Madrid and we chilled out by the pond and the boat lake, relaxing, and taking pictures.
The last evening was a great one. We switched to the western half of Madrid for another park, which featured the Temple of Debod, brought to Madrid when Egypt’s Aswan Damn was being constructed and many temples along the Nile were about to be flooded. So basically, it was a partner temple to our very own Temple of Dendur in New York. The location of the temple had great light to watch the sunset and a great view over parts of the city.
We got a bit lost one last time on our way to dinner, but found our restaurant, Bosco de Lobos, a really cool place, inside Madrid’s College of Architecture. The food was Italian, but by way of Spain, so they had eggplant parm croquetas, delicious pasta, a calzone with Spanish ham, and what William deemed the best margherita pizza he ever had. We finished off the night with a walk through the hopping Chueca district and some yummy home made ice cream (helado) at Mistura. The guy who owned the place was really sweet and said he hopes to come to New York and maybe open a place there one day. We hope to see him soon! (And we hope to be back in Spain for more. . . )